I grew up in a typical
suburban semi on the edge of town with a very long garden backing onto open
fields with cows and horses and a large orchard.
My dad was a very keen
gardener. He grew all his own flowering bedding plants, huge beautiful Dahlias
(which, to her annoyance, he’d never let my mum cut to bring indoors) and
all the traditional veg you can imagine: Broad beans, French beans, peas, potatoes,
tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, cabbages, onions,
beetroots, radishes, lettuce…..and more.
Fresh “local” food was an
everyday occurrence for us, especially when we got our first freezer and it
could be stored all year around. I can remember many sunny evenings sat with my
dad and sister on the back step shelling peas and broad beans and trimming French beans for the pot or freezer.
The cows over the wall
were a mixed herd of milking cows and young steers raised for the table. You
could watch the matronly cows on silent cue shuffle off in gentle, unhurried
order to the milking parlour and see the young cattle grow each day to be found
missing several months later.
We were close to our food.
We even had a local family run butcher deliver three times a week, a baker and
milkman everyday: We knew their names and they knew ours and they would always
have something good hearted and cheeky to say.
So what happened? For us
it was Tesco’s opening a supermarket in a bigger town 12 miles away. It became
a weekly ritual on a Thursday early evening: We would pick up the maternal
grandparents and do a “weekly” shop. Back then petrol was “cheap” and it was a
bit of an adventure; especially as there was a toy shop a few doors down and
the grandparents were along! I can also remember the adults commenting on the wide
variety of products available (they had all experienced wartime austerity) and
how much the prices were so much lower than in the smaller specialist shops
back home.
I guess we traded quality,
food safety, and the value of those who brought produce to our table for
convenience, saving a few quid and the dream of having the culinary world laid
out at our feet.
Yes I do still shop in
supermarkets; they are a hard habit to kick. However I’m thrilled at the rise
and rise of the passionate food artisans that are now to be found increasingly holding
weekly markets, helping to resurrect the high street and contribute positive
pressure on the major retailers. I believe that a balance is to be found; a
visit across the channel to any French provincial town will demonstrate this.
I’m not a food snob: I can
be found eating a McDonald’s occasionally and I'm also able to appreciate the
finest cuisine. I love food not pretence. However if I’m about to part with a
large wedge of my hard earned for a top notch meal, I don’t want the Chef to rely
on a supermarket or national catering company for his ingredients. I want him
to also love food: To know the local producers, to support their enterprises,
to work with them to improve quality, to know what is and what is not locally
in season and to cook with subsequent authenticity.
The pictures in this blog
come from the grounds at Fallowfields in Oxfordshire. The owner; Anthony Lloyd
has been the instigator of producing very local food for the tables in Chef
Matt Weedons restaurant. Matt is now the farm manager and he gets to be hands on throughout the whole process. The garden and animals also add interest for guests and you
can clearly see how well cared for the animals are.
It’s interesting that as
our children have grown up and flown the nest we too have found the time over
the last three years to dig up part of the lawn and grow some of our own veg. I’m
glad that we have. Shame we haven’t got enough room for a few pigs.
So take this as a call out
to all of us who are genuinely passionate about food; grow and rear some of
your own if you have the room, and if you don’t consider it an adventure to
seek out quality local produce for your own table, or a restaurant with a
passion for real food: Enjoy.
All images and text copyright Andrew
Hill 2013
More and larger Images may be found on
the Revealing Light website.